Kaunas is the second-largest city in Lithuania, with nearly 300,000 inhabitants. Kaunas hosts Lithuania’s most famous basketball team Žalgiris, which occupies the largest arena in the Baltic states. Additionally, between 1920 and 1939, Kaunas was the temporary capital of Lithuania. People often poetically call Kaunas the heart of Lithuania. But it wasn’t always like this. Being in constant rivalry with Vilnius, the city was sometimes mockingly called “a gas station between Vilnius and Klaipėda.” But these are the old days. Now Kaunas is a constantly evolving modern European city. Proudly, Kaunas is a European Capital of Culture 2022. Being just an hour away from Vilnius, it’s a perfect destination for a day trip or even a getaway for the whole weekend.
Kaunas castle and Santaka
Kaunas established itself in a scenic place where the two largest Lithuanian rivers – Nemunas and Neris – meet. In the XIV century, the first mortar castle appeared near their confluence (liet. santaka). Nowadays, just 1/3 of this castle is standing, and it hosts a branch of the Kaunas city museum. Santaka Park around the castle is a perfect place for your outdoor time all year round.
Kaunas Old town
The Santaka, as mentioned above Park borders Kaunas old town. There are many buildings in Gothic, Renessainse, and Baroque styles. Stone-paved Vilnius street is probably the most beautiful one. You can find many bars, restaurants, and shops on this street. Town Hall (liet. Rotušė) and its surrounding square comprise Kaunas old town’s heart.
Freedom Avenue
Freedom Avenue (liet. Laisvės Alėja) is the longest pedestrian street in Europe, stretching for almost 1.7 kilometers. Nearly 600 trees of various ages (some counting more than 50 years old) make this avenue cozy. In wintertime, Christmas decorations create an urban fairy tale. Besides bars, restaurants, and various shops, you can find a Freedom fountain and other sculptures dedicated to famous Lithuanians dotted along the path.
Spurginė
Walking down Freedom Avenue, you must stop at Spurginė. Spurginė, in English, loosely translates into a doughnut house. This doughnut house opened its doors during the Soviet era, and it has continuously made doughnuts for more than four decades until this day. Everything there harkens back to Soviet times. The interior hasn’t changed much, and neither have their traditional recipes.
The doughnuts are not American-style with a hole in them. Their shape somewhat resembles round or oval buns, but they are all fried in oil. Furthermore, you can order sweet and savory ones or with meat or mushroom filling. Spurginė is very popular since the prices are low and doughnuts are to die for. Combine this with a specific interior, and you’ll understand why people sometimes stand in line to leave their money there.
St. Michael the Archangel’s Church or the Garrison Church
Everyone simply calls this church Soboras. This huge Neo-Byzantine style building ends the Eastern part of Freedom Avenue. Soboras was built at the end of the XIX century when Kaunas was under the rule of the Russian empire. It was functioning as an Orthodox Church at first, but in 1919 it was transformed into a Catholic Church. In Soviet times, Soboras was an art gallery, but after the restoration of independence was reversed back to a catholic church.
Christ’s Resurrection Basilica
On top of a hill, in the Newer part of Kaunas, stands a huge, quite modern-looking white church. Its appearance is a matter of taste, but this basilica is the biggest church of this type in the Baltic states. Beautiful or not, it is still worth visiting due to the observation deck on the basilica’s roof. No worries if you don’t feel like climbing multiple steps up the hill. You can reach the basilica via funicular.
Funiculars
Continuing about the funiculars – there are two of them in Kaunas. And both of them are fully functioning. Back in the day, it was a sign of city modernization. Mounted in 1931, the first funicular connects V. Putvinskis street and Žaliakalnis, where Christ’s Resurrection Basilica stands. The second one, Aleksotas funicular, was built in 1935. It takes travelers on the Aleksotas hill. From there, you can see the best panoramic view of Kaunas.
Street art
Kaunas is famous for its murals. One of the best places to admire this is in the Yard gallery. Going into this small courtyard feels like stepping into a magical art world. More than ten years ago, an artist Vytenis Jakas started to transfer photos on the walls of Jewish families that lived there back in the day. Within the years, more and more murals appeared in this place. If you decide to visit this Yard gallery, keep in mind that people live there and respect their privacy.
Museums
There are four exciting museums within walking distance from Kaunas old town. These are 1) Tadas Ivanauskas museum of zoology, 2) Vytautas the Great War museum, 3) M.K. Čiurlionis National Art museum, and 4) Devils Museum. While the names of the first three museums are self-explanatory, I would like to shortly introduce the last one.
The full name of this museum is A. Žmuidzinavičiaus creations and collections museum. This is the only devils’ museum in the world. Professor Žmuidzinavičius started collecting figurines of devils as a hobby, and later it became his passion. Now there are about 3000 different types of devils from all over the world in this collection. Most importantly, visitors can find much fascinating information about devils in Lithuanian folklore and interesting facts about them in the world. I dare to claim that this is definitely one of the most unique museums in Lithuania.
Pažaislis Abbey Ensemble
Not to visit Pažaislis monastery means not to visit Kaunas at all. Despite being a bit outside the city, hidden in the lush trees near the largest artificial Lithuanian lake (Kauno Marios), it is still accessible by public transport. Yes, it will require exercising your legs, but it’s worth the effort.
A devoted Christian, nobleman Kristupas Žygimantas Pacas funded the building of Pažaislis for Camaldolese monks in the 17th century. Famous Italians designed and decorated this monastery. Highly decorated in marble, Pažaislis is one of the most beautiful Baroque-style ensembles in North and East Europe.
There is a Sacral Museum of Ensemble of Pažaislis Monastery. Since 1996 this place has hosted the international Pažaislis Music Festival. A hospitality center, “Monte Pacis,” is next to the monastery, with a fancy restaurant and rooms available for booking.
IX Fort
On the eve of WWI, Russian Emperor Alexander II blessed a project to build numerous fortresses around Kaunas. Back then, Kaunas was almost the most western part of the Russian Empire, and it was a strategically important place that needed to be defended at all costs. So the constructions began.
Nine fortresses were constructed with about 750 different facilities: administrative buildings, batteries, barracks, etc. Despite being modern for those times, these fortifications held just for 11 days once the war started. After WWI, the fortresses lost their initial purpose, and just 250 buildings survive today.
The last and the newest fortress, so-called The IX Fort, is the most popular today. A massive monument dedicated to commemorating the victims of fascism was built in 1984. Between the wars, this place was transformed into a hard labor prison. Later, the IX Fort was an NKVD prison and eventually became a concentration camp where thousands of people lost their lives.
In 1958 a museum opened its door. Visitors can learn more about the history of the IX fort and all the terrible things that took place there. Authentic prison cells, letters, personal belongings, and pictures of the prisoners won’t leave you indifferent.
Kaunas European Capital of Culture 2022
And now, back to the thing, I started with. This year Kaunas is the European Capital of Culture. That means many cultural events will take place here: concerts, exhibitions, performances – you name it. This is one more reason to visit this charming Lithuanian city.
Best things to do in Kaunas in a nutshell
Kaunas is cooler than you might think. Just give it a chance. People say the best parties are in Kaunas. Its cultural life is vibrant, especially now, when it is an official European Capital of Culture 2022.
