Theodore Roosevelt National Park is the most beautiful place in North Dakota. Period. Not saying it is the most amazing place in the whole Midwest, but this park is without any doubt a gem placed in the western part of this mostly flat state. We visited Theodore Roosevelt National Park just once, but we’re planning on going back there again. So here are our experiences and tips on how to get the most of your trip to this place.
A bit of history
“I have always said I never would have been President if it had not been for my experiences in North Dakota” – Theodore Roosevelt, 26th president of the United States (1901-1909). Indeed, the first time he arrived in the western part of North Dakota was in 1883 for a hunting expedition. He immediately fell in love with nature end endless western horizons. In 1884, after the death of his wife and mother, he returned to North Dakota to heal himself. Back then, he had two Dakotan ranches – Maltese Cross Ranch and Elkhorn Ranch. After his death and long debates, in November 1978, Theodore Roosevelt National Park was established. This is the only National park directly named after one person.
Geography and few numbers
This park covers almost 70,500 acres (28,500 ha) and is divided into three major parts: North Unit, South Unit, and Elkhorn Ranch Unit. Little Missouri River flows throughout all three above-mentioned units. The distance between North and South Units entrances is almost 70 miles. Before our trip, we didn’t know that traveling between units crosses different time zones – Central Time and Mountain Time. Our gadgets were as much confused at first as we were.
North Unit
We started our trip from the North Unit. We entered through the visitors center and drove all the way at the end of a scenic 14-mile one-way route without stopping anywhere. We planned to get the first impression of this park and then, on the way back, stop and check the North Unit highlights. So here they are:
- Oxbow Overlook
- River Bend Overlook
- Cannonball Concretions Pullout
Driving the scenic route, we encountered a herd of bison calmly lying on the shoulder. It was obvious that they are already used to human presence. There are several prairie dog towns for wildlife lovers, and if you are really lucky, you even might see bighorn sheep. However, the best time to spot wildlife is right before sunrise.
Due to limited time on our hands, we choose just one trail for hiking – Caprock Coulee Nature Trail. At the trailhead, there was a box with a guide of the local fauna. Visitors can grab one of them and learn to recognize different plants near the trail. After making half of the hike, we decided to go back because that particular tail wasn’t as nice as expected. On top of that, the heat got unbearable.
The North Unit somehow felt wilder and more untouched by humans. Even though it was a long 4th of July weekend, there weren’t too many visitors around us.
South Unit
Before officially entering the South Unit, we stopped at the Painted Canyon Visitor Center. There we found an overlook from which we could admire an amazing panoramic view of the Badlands. And yes, the hills actually looked slightly painted.
Then we drove to Medora. The South Unit entrance is located amazingly close to the town square. Here, we ran into a slight problem. The paved Scenic Loop Drive is 36-mile long. However, approximately ¼ of it was closed due to erosion, and when we reached the road closure point, we needed to turn around. This inconvenience inevitably extended our trip.
The South Unit was much busier with tourists. We could actually tell that it was a holiday weekend. We were driving the scenic loop and stopped at each available overlook point or mini trail. We abandoned the idea of hiking anything longer than 1-mile roundtrip. The temperature was crazy hot, and most of the time, we even left our car running with AC on while we were checking the overlooks.
The drive was nice. It really was. But after a while, the views started to blend together. After all, it is Badlands – hills, canyons, and flora. A panoramic view from the Skyline Vista is suspiciously similar to the one from the Boicourt Overlook. These were my top views from the South Unit:
- Boicourt Overlook
- Buck Hill
- Badlands Overlook
The only wildlife we saw in the South Unit were wild horses. These guys shamelessly blocked the traffic and, unlike the bison, seemed annoyed by the human presence.
Medora
Once you’re in Theodore Roosevelt National Park, you must spend some time in the town of Medora. Even their slogan is “Medora: Explore it. Adore it.” Don’t worry; it won’t take too much time to explore it since its population doesn’t even reach 150 inhabitants. In the summertime, it becomes a touristy hotspot due to its proximity to the National Park.
Medora is famous for its musical shows and steak fondue. I tried both of them, but I enjoyed just one. Even though the show was a bit cheesy, I still liked it. It was a story about the foundation of the town of Medora and famous couples that used to live there. And Theodore Roosevelt, of course.
On the other hand, Steak fondue was more about a show of making it, not the actual taste. The steak was hard, dry, and tasteless. And it cost about $35 per person.
The town of Medora has an official page where one can book everything in one place: accommodation, tickets to a musical show, and/or Pitchfork Steak Fondue.
Theodore Roosevelt National Park in a nutshell
Even though North Dakota, in general, isn’t the most desirable tourist destination, Theodore Roosevelt National Park is worth visiting. But maybe not in midsummer because the heat will kill you. Consider that these are Badlands – no water, no lush forests, or any kind of shade. I couldn’t say which unit – North or South – is better or more beautiful. I highly recommend visiting both of them. Start in the early morning, and by the end of the day, you’ll see both of them. And don’t forget to spend some time in Medora. A town that still captures that midwestern spirit.
