How did I get there, or where is that Gaziantep?
The Turkish city of Gaziantep, in the Southeastern Anatolia Region, is famous for mosaics, baklava, pistachios, and Syrian refugees. In late 2019 I had already completed my Master’s program and was looking for ways to occupy my time. I noticed an advertisement to join a project that assists Syrian refugees. However, I needed to double-check my maps. Despite the fact that Gaziantep is the 6th biggest city in Turkey (1.5 million registered inhabitants), the geographical position is far from establishing suitable tourism. The metropolitan area is quite distant from all popular Turkish summer destinations, the capital, and Istanbul. For instance, Gaziantep is almost 1200 km away from Istanbul. It is worth mentioning that Syria’s border is merely 60 km away, making Gaziantep unattractive for most travelers. Ignoring the detractors, I applied and was immediately accepted, beginning my adventure.
What is Gaziantep famous for?
I had never visited Turkey before, and Gaziantep was the first city I experienced. Until then, I (un)consciously managed to avoid all the Alanias, Antalyas, Bodrums, and Izmirs. I dove into REAL, conservative, parts of Turkey few dare to venture.
To be honest, Gaziantep is far from stunning. Breathtaking architectural masterpieces are missing. The oldtown’s highlight is a castle built throughout the I-III sec. From the top of the castle, you can admire decent panoramic views. What Gaziantep is most famous for, is its Zeugma mosaics museum, the biggest mosaic museum in the world, containing 1700 m2 of art, brought from Zeugma city. Unfortunately, the ancient city could not survive. It was ultimately “sacrificed”… to a dam.
Beyond the historical museums, I can recommend a visit to Gaziantep’s open markets, often referred to as bazaars. There are two of these markets, located side by side, in the center of Gaziantep. However, there are striking contrasts between the two, making them feel worlds apart. In the first market, you can find shockingly friendly prices on an array of apparel. After visiting this bazaar, I dread opening my wallet, anywhere in Europe, for a “Made in Turkey” scarf for 10 euros. The second bazaar is tailored to more sophisticated tastes. The markets close proximity to the castle deal in goods directed at the few tourists. Spices, handmade metal products, jewelry, traditional Turkish shoes, are advertised with a considerable markup.
In the old town, you can wander in the cozy, narrow streets. It’s nice to visit the less crowded mosques than the famous ones in Istanbul. Gaziantep is a more peaceful experience. True, there are few places of entertainment in the city center or at least the ones that Europeans are used to. Most Gaziantepians sit in local coffee shops, sipping Turkish tea. More “movement” can be found further away from the center around Gaziantep University.
Price paradise
I fondly remember the first time I visited a local diner. I ordered something similar to Greek souvlaki, and paid 5 Turkish liras, eating so much I could barely move. I stayed for a few more minutes at the table to digest. During that time, I came up with an idea to convert the price of food into euros and I was amazed – 0.75 euros! It was then I realized I was saying goodbye to cooking at home for two months.
An ordinary European can really feel like a real rich one in Gaziantep. Food prices are ridiculously low everywhere, not only in fast food restaurants. Going to a more chic restaurant, you will still be able to eat for 5 euros, and also listen to live traditional Turkish music. I got used to eating almost gratis, that when I went to Istanbul, everything seemed so expensive for me! Although those who have been in Istanbul can confirm that prices are still much lower than in Europe.
And more about clothes. Prices in large supermarkets, although lower, are approaching those in Europe, especially for chains such as H&M, Mark Spencer, and others. However, when you visit the market, you will mostly find Turkish-made clothing and footwear at a very affordable price. It might be possible to argue about quality, but at least for now, I really don’t complain about it. When I got home, I saw exactly the same dress I saw at the Gaziantep Market. The only difference was the price. In Gaziantep, I would have paid 7 euros, and 35 euros in my European home country. I felt sorry for not buying it and not starting the “business”.
Gaziantep is the capital of Turkish gastronomy
I had only tried baklava in Europe, but didn’t like it at all. After tasting it in Gaziantep, I completely changed my mind. A piece of baklava with a glass of milk is a perfect combination. And indeed the Turks are proud of this dessert. We had our favorite bakery where they gave us more milk than normally intended for loyalty.
Did you know that this city has been recognized by UNESCO as the gastronomic capital of Turkey? And a title they certainly deserve! Gaziantep forever changes your perception of what a real kebab is. It is also possible to taste Turkish pizza (lahmacun), traditional lentil soups, sarma (grape leave rolls), and many other dishes and snacks, the names were too complicated to memorize. But my No.3 (after kebabs and baklava) – Çiğ köfte. These are uncooked dumplings of bulgur (a particular cereal), tomato paste, and a special spice mix. Be careful, since this snack is spicy. I saw my friends eating them with tears in their eyes and certainly not because it wasn’t tasty.
Additionally, it is worth mentioning Syrian cuisine. Due to the substantial Syrian community in Gaziantep, there are many Syrian food places, especially in the so-called “Syrian quarter”. Syrian gastronomy made me look differently at… rice. Yes yes, just plain rice. Until then, rice was just a side dish or main component of sushi. But the Syrians turned rice into my daily food. I’m talking about kabsa. This dish, originating in Saudi Arabia, has become widespread in other Arab countries, including Syria. I look forward to practicing this dish in my kitchen.
Endless love for their homeland
Turks are strongly encouraged to love their homeland. No event can do without the flags of the “Holy Trinity” – the Republic of Turkey, Atatürk, and Erdogan. Just so that people do not forget, to whom in the country they must feel forever grateful. We also had a flag with the image of Ataturk in a volunteer home looking angrily at us from above (literally and figuratively). One afternoon, returning from our daily activities, we found it hung in the yard. Big Brother is watching you …
Although Turkey is said to be democratic, it lacks real democracy. I arrived in Gaziantep on September 30, 2019, and less than two weeks later, the Turkish forces began their operation in northeastern Syria. I will not deny, there were concerns. The housemates offered to pack my stuff and return home. Due to the situation, a meeting was convened with representatives of the host organization.
First of all, we were assured that we could return home at any time if we really felt insecure. To be fair, we have certainly not faced any real threats. However, we later heard a statement that “the war was in the media, not in reality.” Understand, the local media has blown the conflict out of proportion, and there is nothing to make such a loud noise. We were asked not to make any trouble and were unable to share any information related to the operation in Syria, even on our personal Facebook accounts. I tried to explain that this was a restriction on freedom of speech, but I received the answer that they understood it, but the order was given from “above”.
Ordinary Turks are very warm and hospitable people. Young people are open to innovation and self-critical. However, neither is inclined to openly share their thoughts on the situation in the country. Such caution is fully justified, as a number of students are locked up because of “anti-state” activities.
During the two months spent in Turkey, I understood a lot about … my home country. I am glad that not only do we claim to be free, but we really are. After all, I spent two great months in Gaziantep. I got to know the local culture, met many wonderful people, tasted incredibly delicious food, and wish for you to visit the heart of Turkish gastronomy for yourself.
Gaziantep in a nutshell
I don’t know for what reasons life would blow you to Gaziantep. It’s definitely not a touristy city although it still has its own charm. The real reason to go there would be their local cuisine. It’s something to die for. So if you’ll end up there, make sure you’ll try all the foods mentioned above. It is a must to visit the Zeugma museum if you’re interested in arts and history.
