After months of accumulating fat, we finally hit the road again. We planned our weekend trip carefully, since the official, Italian quarantine is not canceled, but merely loosened. We had zero desire of going anywhere we could potentially meet people. Therefore, we decided to visit the famous Sicilian Zingaro reserve (it. Riserva dello Zingaro) and spend two nights in a farmhouse (it. agriturismo) nearby. And even if face masks are still an obligatory attribute in public places, they did not disturb my husband and me from enjoying our weekend in Sicily.
Agriturismo is for quiet relaxation
Recently, we discovered local farmhouses. There are multiple reasons to stay in an agriturismo. First of all, peace and quiet are guaranteed aspects, because these homesteads are located further away from noisy, touristy towns. At times, it is even too quiet. However, spending a night in an agriturismo, during quarantine, is highly recommended due to the unlikely scenario of interacting with the touristic populous and sharing the same oxygen. Secondly, owners of homesteads usually offer tasty food and wine. No frozen products. Everything is fresh, from their farm, and homemade. These factors depend on the type of farmhouse you will patronage. Moreover, it is possible to purchase their produce: wine, olive oil, jams, flour, and other high-quality selections, directly from the source. Lastly, some places help you ward off possible boredom and offer different activities. Have you ever dreamt about learning to cook Sicilian food with a chef? Or maybe you always wanted to work in fields, picking oranges and olives with the locals? Well, all of your wishes can come true at an agriturismo.
Inspired by previous experiences in agriturismos, we picked one not far away, in the western town of Trapani. We had no expectations of fanciness, but soon after we arrived, it was clear the homestead’s owner recently reopened. The lawn was not cut, benches were covered with high grass, and the pool was filled with weird-looking yellow water. Due to still ongoing safety restrictions, the SPA was inoperable as well. Additionally, the playground was locked down tighter than the Pentagon, and even the football table was in disarray. TV, Wi-Fi, and the playing cards we brought were the only „entertainment“ we had there. Nevertheless, we did not complain, since we got what we hoped for. Which is, peace and quiet. Except for the resident donkeys. During the two nights we spent there, we met a few people over dinner and breakfast. Everyone sitting at their tables, respecting social distancing, all staff members wore masks, and in all common areas, disinfectant bottles were placed. A pleasantly surprising discipline in southern Italy.
The cherry on top
Zingaro reserve was established in 1981 and was the first one of its kind in Sicily. The main part of the territory is located in San Vito Lo Capo and stretches 7 kilometers north of Castellammare gulf. The park is accessible through two entrances. The southern one is close to Scopello and the northern one is located halfway between San Vito Lo Capo and Scopello. The nature trail fascinates, with mountain ranges, small bays, and breathtaking panoramic views. There are also picnic areas, museums, water stations, and even caves. Everything required for an unforgettable day outdoors.
We started our hike from the south entrance. It was only possible to enter the area with a mask for the safety of the staff members there, but we did not meet anyone with it later on. Since, due to quarantine, museums were not opened, the entrance to the park was free. The regular price is 5 euro per person. The experience is worth every euro paid. Our backpack was stuffed with lunch, water, and playing cards that stayed unused. But a hat, sunscreen, and sunglasses were the handiest items we brought. Otherwise, we could have got a heat stroke. We walked about 15 km over the 5 hours in the reserve. It took 3 hours one way since I was stopping at every stone, or lizard, that came my way. The eyes could hardly admire the beauty created by nature. The trail is not super-mega-ultra difficult. The uphill and downhill ratio is relatively friendly to your legs. The trail is suitable for those who have active kids as well. But that day was like an oven. Such weather conditions made me clean my sweat, and whine every so often.
During the 5 hours spent in this territory, we met not more than 20 people. Mostly, they were hiking in pairs, but there were a couple of foursomes as well. In two little bay’s beaches, people were enjoying sunbathing and some of them even were swimming in the still cool sea. I couldn’t resist myself and waded into the water to my knees, meanwhile hoping not to wake up with a sore throat the next morning. Luckily, I escaped that fate. I’m sure that during the peak of the summer season, these little cute beaches are settled with tourists’ towels and umbrellas. Sometimes, it’s better to travel in the low season.
Further from tourist routes
Although our main destination was Zingaro reserve, we also visited several small and lesser-known towns along the way. One of them was Petralia Soprana. This town has little more than 3000 dwellers and is situated near the access to Madonie park (it. Parco delle Madonie). In 2018, Petralia Soprana was elected the most beautiful town in Italy. I don’t know who organized that competition, or how transparent it was. In general, I am always skeptical about all these “the most…” lists. However, this town is worth visiting. We arrived in the afternoon when Italians are enjoying their pausa pranzo. All the streets were deserted. We were strolling, undisturbed through narrow stony streets that provided shade, and were smelling of an intense aroma of jasmine. Though Petralia Soprana can leave an impression of a town in the middle of nowhere, it has everything the local population might need – a hospital, post office, bank, some stores, and many restaurants.
Continuing 12km to the northeast from Petralia Soprana, we reached the lesser-known town of Geraci Siculo. It also resides in Madonie park, and from there, you can notice forests, which are uncommon in Sicily. There are 2000 inhabitants in Geraci Siculo. Despite the fact it’s much smaller than the previous town, it was preferable (closer to my heart). Maybe it was because this place offered a breathtaking panoramic view. On one side stretched the Madonie park, planted with green hills and in the distance, the sea almost merges with the horizon. On the other side, you can see Mount Etna, rising 70 kilometers away. At the highest point of this village stands the ruins of a Byzantine castle with an untouched St. Anne’s church. However, Geraci Siculo is best known for its main economic activity, the collection, and bottling, of mineral water from mountain springs.
#andràtuttobene
For the past few months, the hashtag „everything will be fine“ (it. andrà tutto bene) was widely used as a certain expression of support in social media. And now, when the tension gradually subsides, people start to believe that this hashtag is not just a mere sign of solidarity, but also achievable reality. Everything will be fine for sure. Sicilians are already waiting for incoming tourists. The island slowly reopens primarily for locals. Later, it will do the same for foreigners. You will soon be able to sit in a seafront café, enjoying a cannolo with a cup of real Italian coffee.
If you’re planning to visit this island, I have one main suggestion for you. Be brave and rent a car, preferably with full insurance. Driving here is not an easy task. Maybe not all locals will understand why you show your blinker everywhere, or why you actually stop at a traffic light without pedestrians. Keep in mind that the most convenient way to visit this island is to be independent of public transport. None of the tourist buses will take you to explore such gems as Petralia Soprana.
